Must See

Defeating the Stendhal Effect

First the vision starts to blur, then the throbbing headache and a feeling of disorientation, and finally the inevitable realization: all the churches have started to look the same…

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A trip through Rome is a trip through time. Rome's past is forever revealed in the cracks and corners of the city - down any narrow street in the centre could be an absurdly beautiful object, with no apparent purpose. 


On this page is a list of 'must see' locations but don't try to see them all unless you want to experience the 'Stendhal Effect'.  Keep calm, see what you can and don’t over-extend yourself. The joy of Rome is the experience of exploring. Don't fret if you miss a few monuments.

 

The most important thing is to keep your eyes open because if you just scratch beneath the surface the past emerges. In an open courtyard, there could be a hand-carved sarcophagus being used as a watering hole; sunk into the mortar of a wall is an ancient column that some medieval builder grabbed as cheap materials; and on the corner of a building could be a sculpture of the Virgin Mary laying her blessings upon the street.

 

Just remember to be ready for the climate; so in the Summer keep a bottle of water with you and wear a sun hat, and in the winter bring a good coat and an umbrella. 


•Basilica of San Clemente
•Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin and La Bocca di Verità
•Crypta Balbi Museum
•Largo di Torre Argentina
•Museo Centrale Montemartini
•Open Air Museum
•Ponte Sant'Angelo
•Quirinal Hill
•Roman Forum, The Colosseum & the Palatine Hill
•Santa Maria in Trastevere
•Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi)
•Villa Borghese : The pleasure gardens of Rome
•Vittoriano

Basilica of San Clemente

The Basilica of San Clemente is quite simply one of the most stunning sites in all of Rome, and one of the city’s best-kept secrets. This three-tiered complex just two blocks from the coliseum takes visitors on a colorful journey through time layer-by-layer reveals the secrets of Rome’s history.  


The upper church was built around 1100 when the original church was burned during the Norman sack of the Rome in 1084 – it is adorned with a dazzling display of medieval mosaics and frescos. 


San Clemente was already mentioned in the fourth-century writings of St Jerome, and was expanded shortly after as Christianity became Rome’s official religion. The lower basilica contains one of the largest collections of early Christian frescoes as well as some fascinating artifacts of the end of the Roman Empire. Long forgotten under the churches foundations, these treasures were only revealed the 19th century.


Another staircase down from the lower basilica reveals the breathtaking experience of standing in ancient Rome: before your eye lies the private home of the martyr Titus Flavius Clemens, where clandestine Christian worship was conducted in the first century AD. Next door, the remains of a small temple and school dedicated to the eastern cult of Mithras, a fascinating example of the diversity of cultures and religious practices in Rome’s ancient heyday.


The Irish Dominicans have been the caretakers of San Clemente since 1667 and commenced excavations in 1857. The site also contains several memorials to Saints Cyril and Methodius, who created the first Slavic alphabet, a precursor to modern Cyrillic, and Christianized the Slavic peoples. Check out the Basilica’s excellent English website basilicasanclemente.com 

Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin and La Bocca di Verità

Built over the remains of an important pagan temple in the Forum Boarium or cattle market of ancient Rome, the 6th century church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin is one of Rome’s best examples of early Christian architecture (Cosmedin comes from the Greek word for ‘beautiful’). The church’s tower is a veritable icon of the medieval Romanesque style and the floor a breathtaking example of Cosmatesque pavement (created by the Cosmati, an infamous medieval family of craftsmen who worked with marble from ancient Roman ruins, arranging the multi-colored pieces in geometrical designs).

But lets face it, only the most hard-core art historians visit Santa Maria in Cosmedin for its architectural appeal (however amazing). It’s the Mouth of Truth we’re looking for – the Bocca della Verità, made famous by Gregory Peck in the film Roman Holiday. This esoteric carving of a man’s face with a hole in its mouth is thought to be a manhole cover dating from around 500 BC – they sure don’t make ‘em like they used to.

Ledged has it that if you tell a lie with one hand in the bocca, it will be bitten off. Placed in the portico of Santa Maria in Cosmedin in the 17th century, it has been attracting crowds ever since, especially honeymooning couples and – due to the enormous success of the film – hordes of tour groups from Japan. Which can make queuing up to stick your hand in the famous mouth even more interesting than the ‘moment of truth’ itself. Yes, its silly, but it’s a Must-See. Here’s why: you’ll go for the mouth and stay for the church, which is simply gorgeous.

Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin

Piazza Bocca della Verità 18 (Near Circus Maximus)

Bus #30, 170 from Termini stop in front 

Open 9:30am to 5:50pm daily

Città del’ Altra Economia

‘Città del’ Altra Economia’

Campo Boario (Testaccio)

Closed Mondays. Tuesday through Saturday 10.00 am to 8.00 pm, Sunday10,00 am to 7.00 pm.

The Città del’ Altra Economia (or Alternative-economy City) is almost too hip for Rome. Situated in a former slaughterhouse in the heart of the always-trendy Testaccio, this precious gem within Rome’s chaotic streets provides a peaceful spot from which to eat, drink and buy yummy stuff of the very best quality, and to enjoy a rare glimpse of open sky and cool vibes. 

Nestled between Monte Testaccio and the Tiber, this former refugee camp within the slaughterhouse walls, a string of shops offers fair trade and organic foodstuffs (including fresh local produce and meats), snacks and aperitifs, fair-trade clothing from around the world and even works of art and accessories made from recycled materials. 

The on-site restaurant is quite family friendly and the food good enough to make you completely re-think your stereotype of an ‘organic restaurant’. Of course, leave it to Italians to get it right. Outside the shops in the ‘Campo Boario’, there’s a lot of open space where the kids can run and you can even enjoy a prosecco out under the stars. The best part about the complex is that credit cards are welcomed and open every day – even Sundays!

The consortium that runs the complex holds seasonal fairs inside the complex, where you can buy organic food, wine, olive oil and other local products direct from the producers. 

Its hard to find, but once you do this place is not only a ‘must see’ but a ‘must eat’ as well. 

Crypta Balbi Museum

Via delle Botteghe Oscure, 31

Near Largo Argentina – #8 tram and several bus lines 

Never saw it? Its right off Largo Argentina, in the heart of Rome’s historic center – a unique space and a unique museum: simply put, the Crypta Balbi is a museum of everything that’s been on that spot for over 2,000 years. And since this is Rome, a lot has been there. It’s a great way to look at history, not just in terms of ‘ancient’ and ‘modern’ but in terms of the innumerable incarnations of the city throughout its long and not-so-simple history.

The site was hit upon in 1981, when an archeological team digging near here discovered the colonnaded portico of the Theatre of Lucius Cornelius Balbus, some nearby grain stores and evidence of later, medieval occupation of the site. Over the centuries, the site evolved into markets, warehouses, churches, houses, workshops, factories, hospices, food distribution centers, and was finally left to ruin. 

Inaugurated in 2000, the museum houses the archaeological remains from that first dig and so much more. The first-floor exhibit, “Archaeology and history of an urban landscape" weaves the findings of the 1981 excavations into the context of history.  The section “Rome from antiquity to the middle ages.” illustrates the life and transformations of Rome – and this site – between the 5th and 10th centuries AD. Explanatory text is offered in English as well as Italian. 

Ok, its not the Coliseum, but if you’re free for an afternoon and want to dig below the surface in order to understand a bit about the history of this great city (there’s an interesting bookstore too), the Crypta Balbi is not far off the beaten path and definitely a ‘Must See’.

Largo di Torre Argentina

Every visitor to Rome passes through Largo Argentina at one time or another – maybe without even knowing it. It is the terminus of the #8 tram and a major stop for several important city busses. But with all this to-ing and fro-ing, many people don’t get a chance to gaze past all that to ruins that lay down below the street and seem to be…moving. 

In the midst of the four temples and the remains of the Theatre of Pompey (where Julius Caesar was assassinated) lies another very Roman institution – the Torre Argentina Cat Sanctuary. The temples were uncovered during 1927 excavations for an urban renewal project, and construction was permanently halted to preserve the temple area several meters below street level. One by one, stray cats began to take refuge in the ruins, and were cared for by local cat lovers or gattare. In 1995, the Anglo-Italian Society for the Protection of Animals began to support the sanctuary, and a full-fledged shelter now provides medical services and offers adoptions. There is even a ‘cat shop’ selling cat-themed souvenirs. 

You don’t need to visit the shelter itself to encounter the sanctuary’s sizable colony of cats: simply gaze down at the foundations of the great temples and ponder what the countless felines are thinking as they bask in the remains of an empire’s former glory. 

Expat filmmaker Michael W. Hunt has directed an excellent documentary on Rome’s kitties and the sanctuaries where they are cared for, including Largo Argentina. Pick up a copy of Cats of Rome at Amazon.com.

Museo Centrale Montemartini

via Ostiense 106 
Rome (metro B to Garbatella, exit towards via Ostiense, Bus # 23, 271, 769, 770)

Opening hours Tuesday-Sunday 9.00am-7.00pm; 24th and 31st of December 9.00am-2.00pm (the ticket office closes half an hour in advance)

Closed Monday, 25th December, 1st January, 1st May

The Centrale Montemartini museum is a memorable example of the Italian interest in ‘industrial archaeology’ – that is, relics of the industrial past. This innovative museum makes use of a defunct electrical power station to juxtapose two proud eras in Italian history – the ancient and the modern – in an exciting and dynamic way. Its permanent collection includes 400 classical statues, moved here during the reorganization of the Capitoline Museums in 1997, along with tombs, busts, and stunning mosaics from ancient Rome. 

Framing these classical works of art are the gargantuan machines once used to generate power in an expanding and quickly industrializing Rome between the 1800s and the 1930s. These ambitious iron machines and the finely sculpted classical masterworks play off each beautifully, their contrast shedding new light on the might of both ages and their legacies: power and impermanence. 

If you are not a ‘museum person’, take a look here – the Centrale Montemartini may have just something to offer you. This is probably the most family-friendly museum Rome, offering something for everyone. And it is not as far from the center of Rome as you might think a power station would be.

English web site:  http://en.centralemontemartini.org/

Open Air Museum

Most people don’t think of Rome when they think of contemporary art, this being the town that gave birth to the classical and the baroque. The National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art here exhibits works from the 19th century to Warhol.  MACRO, Rome’s contemporary art museum, is growing but lies off the beaten track and offers little to the visitor from anywhere more cosmopolitan. Is Rome simply a relic of the antique or does it live and breathe in the 21st century? And if it is alive, does it still inspire?

The artist Fausto Delle Chiaie has devoted himself to creating an exhibition that is not only part of the urban landscape but reflects the everyday realities of a modern, bustling city – the traffic, the litter, the legacy of a grand past that is so obviously prostituted. Chiaie’s Open Air Museum is as well-conceived as it is accessible to both Roman and visitors (descriptions are in English as well as Italian). Works of art are created from everyday objects (including the artist himself!) and situated all’ aperta along a Roman street. The thought-provoking exhibit has been located by the Tomb of Augustus since 1988, but can now be found atop a low wall descending down the charming Via di Monte Brianzo, which becomes Via Condotti, offering a sweeping view across the Campo Marzo and up the Spanish Steps.

The artist is usually on-site and will be happy to talk to you – you might even get an autographed drawing. As the exhibition located on the street, it is free to all, but of course donations are always appreciated. Enjoy!

Ponte Sant'Angelo

Ponte Sant'Angelo, once the Aelian Bridge or Pons Aelius meaning the Bridge of Hadrian, is a bridge in Rome, constructed between 134-139 by Roman Emperor Hadrian, to span the Tiber, from the city centre to his newly constructed mausoleum, now the towering Castel Sant'Angelo. The bridge is now solely pedestrian, and provides a photogenic vista of the Castel Sant'Angelo. It links the rioni of Ponte (which was named after the bridge itself), and Borgo.

For centuries after the sixteenth century, the bridge was used to expose the bodies of the executed. In 1535, Pope Clement VII allocated the toll income of the bridge to erecting the statues of the apostles saint Peter and Saint Paul to which subsequently the four evangelists and the patriarchs were added to other representing statues Adam, Noah, Abraham, and Moses. In 1669 Pope Clement IX commissioned replacements for the aging stucco angels by Raffaello da Montelupo, commissioned by Paul III. Bernini's program, one of his last large projects, called for ten angels holding instruments of the Passion: he personally only finished the two originals of the Angels with the Superscription "I.N.R.I." and with the Crown of Thorns, but these were kept by Clement IX for his own pleasure. They are now in the church of Sant'Andrea delle Fratte, also in Rome.

Quirinal Hill

The Dioscuri on the Quirinal Hill

The view from the Qurinial Hill is magnificent - looking over the entire historic center, it captures the Roman sunset with grace. It is perfectly located for travelers, just a few minutes walk from the Trevi Fountain, the Bernini church of Sant'Andrea al Quirinale, the church San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane by Francesco Borromini and the Fountains of the Four Rivers.

At the top of the Hill sits one of Rome's great Egyptian obelisks, taken by Emperor Augustus upon his victory over Antony and Cleopatra. The obelisk is flanked by the Dioscuri - Castor and Pollux, the sons of Zeus. They stand watch over the Palazzo del Quirinale, the former residence of the Popes and of the Kings of Italy. Today it is the residence of the Italian President, and regularly hosts important exhibitions. Across from the Palazzo sits the Scuderie del Quirinale, the former armory of the palace, which today is the most important exhibition space in Rome. 

Roman Forum, The Colosseum & the Palatine Hill

The Forum was the centre of ancient Rome, standing at the centre of today’s Rome. This is the Roman forum, and around it formed all of western civilization. Originally wet land it was drained in the  7th century BC. It came to importance when Rome’s second king built the home of the vestal virgins there, along with the first Royal Palace. 

It is here where all of the most important temples were placed, along with law courts, as well as the seat of government and the economic hub of the empire.  Around it formed all of western civilization, something which you can feel as you walk down its centre. 

Just east, down the Via Foro Imperial, sits the Coliseum. Construction started on it between 70 and72 CE, and it is one of the most dominate buildings and symbols of Imperial Rome. Built originally to seat a crowd of 50,000, who would come watch, gladiatorial contests, animal hunts, executions, re-enactments of famous battles, and dramas based on Classical mythology. While it remained in use for nearly 500 years, the only blood sports it host today are getting in to take a look. 

Looking over all of it is the Palatine hill, where the rulers of ancient Rome kept their palaces. Here seen from the circus maximus we can see what were once the basements of these grand palaces which are no more. On this  hill was here that the she-wolf took and protected Romulus and Remus and it was here where the emperor Augustus lived. 

There is one unified ticket for all three sites, costing 11.50 euro and it is good for two days. The sites are also covered by The Roma Pass, The Roma & Piu Pass, and the Roma Archaeologia Card . All three sites are open from 8:30 till one hour before sunset and the ticket office closes two hours before sunset.

All three sites are closed on January 1, December 25. 

Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini 

The Capuchin “Bone” Church 

Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini sits atop Rome’s impressive Piazza Barbarini, an odd-shaped square crowned by Bernini’s unforgettable fountain of Triton; the Palazzo Barberini, with its world-class art collection, overlooks the piazza. With so much to see here, it is easy to lose sight of the church, which would be a shame since it makes for a truly unforgettable visit. This is the church of the Capuchin monks – the guys who broke away from the Franciscans in 1525 because they wanted to be even more austere. With their brown, hooded robes (‘cappuccio’ means ‘hood’ in Italian), the Capuchins’ look inspired the ever-popular coffee drink – cappuccino.

In this square once dominated by the Barberini family, it’s not surprising that a church was commissioned by Pope Urban VIII Barberini in 1626 and that his brother Cardinal Antonio Barberini, was a Capuchin. Sitting high atop Via Veneto, the church frames the dramatic altarpiece of St. Michael the Archangel by Guido Reni and other impressive works by some of the 17th Century’s top guys. If it’s quiet inside, you can throw the caretaker a few euros and get a unique glimpse into the Barberinis’ private rooms behind the main altar. 

But it’s the crypt underneath that makes this church one of Rome’s ‘Must Sees’. This eerie space not only hosts the bones of more than 4,000 deceased Capuchin friars (who died between 1528 and 1870), but through the years, some decidedly bored monks fashioned the bones into decorative Baroque displays – you will never look at a tailbone the same again. The rooms have names like Crypt of the Skulls, Crypt of the Pelvises, Crypt of the Leg Bones and Thigh Bones, and Crypt of the Three Skeletons – and creepy music is even piped in for ambiance. With its bone-art nailed to the walls and ceiling in patterns of intricate but ghastly beauty, the crypt must be seen to be believed. When the Marquis de Sade visited in 1775, he described it as "An example of funerary art worthy of an English mind". See for yourselves – if you’ve got a stomach for the macabre side of religion. 

Open 9-12 noon; 3-6 p.m. (closed Thursday). 

Entry fee: donation of at least 1 euro. No photographs permitted but postcards on sale.

Santa Maria in Trastevere

Must see – Piazza and Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere

Basilica open daily 7.30 am to 1 pm and 4 to 7 pm

Tram 8 from Largo Argentina or H bus from Termini to first stop after crossing Tiber

bus 23 or 280 to Ponte Sisto/Piazza Trilussa 

You will never forget the first time you emerge from Trastevere’s narrow warren of twisting streets into the stunning piazza of Santa Maria in Trastevere. The church positively gleams with its golden medieval mosaics and sculptural group of Baroque saints who seem to be vogueing above the piazza to some unheard dance track. It is certainly one of the most unforgettable places in Rome, and a great place to spend an evening. 

The basilica itself dates back to ancient Rome –this may have been the first church where Christianity was practiced openly. Under the portico, you will find many of the stones once adorning Rome’s early Christian catacomb tombs and other beautiful examples of ancient stonework. Inside is a veritable treasure trove of art and artefact, and you can sometimes catch an impromptu organ recital or a mass in English. This church is also home to the community of Sant’ Egidio, one of Rome’s best known and most active charitable organizations. 

Outside, you can grab a spremuta d’arancia (fresh-squeezed orange juice), cocktail or even dinner in one of the pricy-but-cool-for-people-watching establishments surrounding the piazza. Or, if you’re feeling a bit Bohemian – or it Rome is simply burning a hole in your wallet – do the traditional Trastevere thing: BYOB and hang out by the piazza’s imposing octagonal fountain. Musicians and performers are known to frequent this lively corner of Rome, and you just might get a show. At the very least, an evening in this unforgettable square will undoubtedly leave an enduring impressions of Rome. 

Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi)

The Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi) is the largest — standing 25.9 meters (85
feet) high and 19.8 meters (65 feet) wide — and most ambitious of the Baroque
fountains of Rome.

     

Set into the back of the Palazzo Poli, the fountain is at the juncture of three roads (tre vie). It marks the terminal point of the "modern" Acqua Vergine, the revitalised Aqua Virgo, one of the aqueducts that supplied water to ancient Rome. 

     

Designed by Nicola Salvi, the fountain was completed in 1762, when Pietro Bracci's 'Neptune' was set in the central niche. The fountain was refurbished in 1998. The custom is to throw three coins over your shoulder at the same time: the first coin for true love, the second for a good marriage and the third is for you to return to Rome.

Villa Borghese : The pleasure gardens of Rome

Click here for map location

Here are the pleasure gardens of Rome. This is the Villa Borghese and it is one of the greatest parks on earth. 

Construction of the gardens began in 1605 for Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew of Pope Paul V, on the site of his vineyards. The area served as his personal playgrounds, where he would entertain friends and esteemed guests, and where he built a splendid gallery to house his personal art collection. Today it houses some of the finest masterworks of painting and sculpture in the world, including important works by Bernini, Rafael and Caravaggio. 

The City of Rome bought the land in 1903 and it is now a public park, allowing us all to enjoy a bit of the good life of Cardinal Borghese and his wealthy companions. 

The Villa Borghese houses several other museums and points of interest as well, including a Shakespearian theatre and racecourse for horses, a zoological park and a pavilion for cinema buffs. The villa is not only there to hold works of art and natural beauty but to live in. 

Its position atop Via Veneto, the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo makes it the perfect place to run away to. And the park’s southern end on the Pincio hill is one of the most arresting and romantic places from which to view the city. 

Enjoy your journey. 

Vittoriano

It stands at the centre of Palazzo Venezia, and at the centre of the  Rome. The Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II (National Monument of Victor Emmanuel II) or Altare della Patria (Altar of the Fatherland) or "Il Vittoriano" is a monument to honour Victor Emmanuel, the first king of a unified Italy. Love it or hate it, The Vittoriano is one of the most powerful and enduring symbols of the city. 

At its centre is Italy’s eternal flame of the unknown solider, watched twenty-four hours a day by an honour guard. It also two of Rome’s most important exhibition spaces, one being the permanent museum of the Risorgimento (the movement which unified Italy) and the other being a temporary exhibition space for some of the most important shows to come into the nation. From it’s higher levels it, perhaps,  boasts the best view of the city, standing 70 m (230 ft) high and 135 m (443 ft) wide. 

Beneath its Corinthian columns there are some excellent mosaic work and at its centre is a statue of Vittorio Emanuele II (Victor Emanuele II). It is also covered in some brilliant sculptural work. 

Still, nearly one hundred years after it’s inauguration, it remains controversial. It’s imposing style has lead to it being referred to as the typewriter, the wedding cake, the false teeth, the zuppa inglese, as well as many other unkind terms. Also built from tooth white marble from Brescia, it does not match the hues and tones of the city. More disturbing, it is build directly on top of important parts of the Roman Forum and it’s construction lead to untold archaeological damage to the area. 

Still in a city dominated by its past, the Vittoriano remains an important symbol for the birth of the modern Italian nation. 

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