Built over the remains of an important pagan temple in the Forum Boarium or cattle market of ancient Rome, the 6th century church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin is one of Rome’s best examples of early Christian architecture (Cosmedin comes from the Greek word for ‘beautiful’). The church’s tower is a veritable icon of the medieval Romanesque style and the floor a breathtaking example of Cosmatesque pavement (created by the Cosmati, an infamous medieval family of craftsmen who worked with marble from ancient Roman ruins, arranging the multi-colored pieces in geometrical designs).
But lets face it, only the most hard-core art historians visit Santa Maria in Cosmedin for its architectural appeal (however amazing). It’s the Mouth of Truth we’re looking for – the Bocca della Verità, made famous by Gregory Peck in the film Roman Holiday. This esoteric carving of a man’s face with a hole in its mouth is thought to be a manhole cover dating from around 500 BC – they sure don’t make ‘em like they used to.
Ledged has it that if you tell a lie with one hand in the bocca, it will be bitten off. Placed in the portico of Santa Maria in Cosmedin in the 17th century, it has been attracting crowds ever since, especially honeymooning couples and – due to the enormous success of the film – hordes of tour groups from Japan. Which can make queuing up to stick your hand in the famous mouth even more interesting than the ‘moment of truth’ itself. Yes, its silly, but it’s a Must-See. Here’s why: you’ll go for the mouth and stay for the church, which is simply gorgeous.
Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin
Piazza Bocca della Verità 18 (Near Circus Maximus)
Bus #30, 170 from Termini stop in front
Open 9:30am to 5:50pm daily