Panattoni “Ai Marmi” (l’Obitorio)

Viale Trastevere 53-59, Trastevere. Tel 06 58.00.919

Average €20-25/person 

Open for dinner; closed Wednesday. No reservations. No credit cards accepted.

     Pizzeria Panattoni “ai Marmi” is known by Romans as ‘l’Obitorio’ or ‘the morgue’ because its long rows of marble-topped tables remind you of…well, you get the picture. But have no fear – the sumptuous Roman delights and wood-fired pizza will make you forget about its morbid name immediately. For tourists, ex-pats and locals alike, this well-located Trastevere eatery is the classic Roman food experience for 50 years and counting. Opening early (for Rome anyway, at 7) and closing late, l’Obitorio’s prime-dinnertime waiting crowds can begin to resemble mob scenes. Try to get there before 8 or after 10:30 to avoid the rush, and don’t mind the carefully cultivated crankiness of the wait staff – abuse at the hands of irate waiters is yet another Roman tradition that you can actually learn to enjoy if you don’t take it personally and have a good sense of humor. 

     Seated either inside at the infamous marble-topped tables or out on Viale Trastevere with the trams whooshing by, you’ll be able to kill your hunger pangs with some of the best Roman antipasti in town: we especially recommend the fritti or fried starters (forget about your diet!) such as baccalà (fried salt cod with fresh lemon), supplì al telefono (fried balls of rice filled with melty-hot mozzarella that stretches out when you pull them apart – like a telephone wire) and fiori di zucca (zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella and anchovy) – there is nothing like it.

     Once you’ve sampled the starters (be careful not to fill up on them!) you’ll want to savor the real thing: a thin and crispy – very Roman – crust, topped with, basically whatever you want. While the simple Margherita (cheese and tomato sauce) and Marinara (just the sauce topped with garlic and oregano) can’t be beat, you can also experiment with tried-and-tested favorites such as Napolitana (with anchovies), quattro formaggi (four cheeses), bresaola and ruchetta (thin slices of cured beef and fresh arugula or rocket), boscaiola (‘from the forest’ – a hearty mushroom extravaganza) and, for those big appetites, capricciosa (a little bit of everything). 

     If you’ve been in Rome awhile and thought of yet another pizza causes your stomach to seize up, they also offer a wide selection of tasty bean dishes that won’t add any more starch to your poor tummy. And as if you haven’t enjoyed this place enough, they’ve got homemade desserts, including a quite good rendition of tiramisu. 

     For a solid, Roman pizzeria experience, this place is everyone’s old standby. It’s easy to find (just along the #8 tram) and the huge wood-fired oven churns out reliably great pizzas well past midnight. Just bring cash and don’t be surprised if everyone else along the tables is also speaking English, especially if you get there on the early side (the Italian crowd doesn’t show up until at least 9). You can all swap grumpy-waiter stories and have a good laugh over your Peroni beer and pizzas. 

Buon appetito!