While Rome never could compare with Paris or Berlin (or even Catania, lets face it) when it comes to nightlife, still there is that little itch sometimes that makes some people want to experience the bump and grind of sweaty bodies moving to house music into the wee hours of the morning, even in Rome. Until recently I used to say that going out clubbing in Rome was kind of like going to the beach in New York – it exists but its just not what you come here for. 

There is an assortment of clubs clutched around the base of Monte Testaccio, that ancient pile of terracotta rubbish just downriver from the historic center, many of which move out onto the beach at Ostia during the summer months. There you can find the usual assortment of guidos with tiny cars and skin-tight pants as well as some ok DJs. A cooler scene is actually right in the center of everything – Campo dei Fiori. Il Campo is perhaps the coolest place in Rome, re-inventing itself every 24 hours and always full of watchable people. 

A farmer’s market all morning, the Campo hosts its namesake flower market all day, as well as numerous cafes from where you can watch local characters cavort and the occasional gypsy band swing through. By evening, the Campo clears out for its second life as Rome’s nightly get-together spot. The surrounding pubs guarantee a generous supply of alcohol, or buy your own bottle and swig it down right under the towering statue of Giordano Bruno, who was burned at the stake in that very spot for thinking the earth revolved around the sun. At around 5 am, the sweepers roll through again, clearing broken beer bottles so that the new day’s market can begin again. For a great companion to your buzz, Aristo Campo stays open late serving the most wonderful hot-pressed panini you ever tasted. Choose from the generous menu or create your own – the prices are low and the staff is friendly and English speaking. 

If you simply need to bump and grind the night away, Rialto (via Sant’ Ambrogio 4) is a cool space just a few steps from Largo Argentina that has turned an old high school into what you always dreamed high school should be: three separate dance floors with plenty of other space just for hanging and lounging. The crowd here is pretty low-key, with a mix of hip leftys amid the tight-pants types (you won’t feel like grandma or grandpa if you are in your 30s). Best of all, admission is only 7Euros (and drinks just 5!). In addition to club nights, Rialto hosts live bands and theatrical performances, and is an all-around cool space amid the rambling ancient facades of the former ghetto. After you’ve worked up a good sweat, I recommend ambling over to Aristo Campo for a sausage and zucchini panino. Truly nothing in life could be better.