It always looks incredible in the postcard – red and oranges refracted from the sun off warm-colored medieval buildings, ancient giants in stone shining white in the afternoon light. And you might even see Rome or its environs on a day like this if you’re lucky. But between November and March (this is when the travel agencies like to offer those discount packages including everything for one low price) you are lucky to encounter much sun at all. You are more likely to encounter periodic, if effervescent, bursts of sun interrupted by sloppy, gray rainstorms and chill-to-the-bone temperatures. From the looks of them in their halter tops and flip flops, the study-abroad crowd is caught by complete surprise by this every year. But don’t lose heart. Rome is still beautiful in the rainy season. And although there are always museums to see, the Vatican isn’t the only attraction that will keep you warm and dry during your stay here. 

Look at the positive. Coming to Rome during the rainy season means you’ve missed the oppressive crowds of the high season. It also means the pickpockets have a better chance, statistically, of getting you – so watch your wallet! The other cool thing here is that the instant the rain starts, thousands of tiny men pop up on every street corner selling umbrellas, like in a strange fairy tale. Here’s the deal: each umbrella will get you through an average of 1.3 rainstorms, so even though the sellers usually try to get ten euros for one, it’s a far better deal to negotiate a bulk buy of three or four for that price, which will get you through approximately 6.3 days here during the rainy season. Hai capito?

Drains! An Italian friend once commented that drains are the mark of high civilization. It doesn’t take long to realize that here the storm drainage was much better 2000 years ago than it is now. So with the streets seeping filthy, sewer-smelling water, who wants to go museum hopping or shopping on the Via Condotti, even with an umbrella? Many tourists feel trapped in their tiny hotel rooms during the rains. But remember that in Rome’s many cafes and bars, a single glass of wine or cup of tea can buy you a whole afternoon’s worth of warm, dry, cozyness while watching others get soaked in the street. When this gets old, you can move onto a trattoria, and spend another several hours leisurely enjoying a multi-course meal, or hit one of Rome’s cinemas showing English-language films Most movies here are dubbed, but the few precious theatres showing films in VO (versione originale) include the Metropolitan on Via del Corso, the Warner Village Moderno in Piazza della Repubblica and the Alcazar (on Mondays) in Trastevere.   

And after your dinner/movie? Check out an enoteca (wine bar). These are probably Rome’s best-kept secrets for killing time in style with a good glass of vino. Here are a few of our favorites in the center of town:

Vineria Reggio (‘La Vineria’) Campo de' Fiori, Tel. 06 68803268

Enoteca Ferrarra, Piazza Trilusa, Trastevere, Tel. 06 58333920 (don’t bother with the restaurant)

Casa Bleve Via del Teatro della Valle 48/49 Tel. 06 6865970 (amazing food too)

Angolo Divino Via Dei Balestrari, 12 (near Campo de’ Fiori) 06 6864413