You can find snow cones in lots of cities, whether they’re called water ices or Italian ices or what have you, they’re always shaved into a snowy consistency and covered in fruity syrup. But only in Rome has the snow cone been turned into an art form: the grattachecca. In the old days before refrigeration (not so long ago in Italy) huge blocks of ice (checca) were used to keep food cool – some of these blocks were grated (gratta) with a large grater and various fruit flavors were added – ecco! 

Unlike a granita, which is made by mixing water with syrup or juice and letting partially freeze, a grattachecca is always shaved right in front of you, with fruit or other flavors are added to your taste. At the kiosks (chioschi) where most grattacchecche are made, they can usually suggest combinations of flavors that ‘si sposano bene’ or ‘marry well’ with each other. 

Unfortunately as with all good things, the grattachecca kiosks in Rome are slowly disappearing, especially the ones that hand-shave the ice from a large block (many now use machines to grate smaller cubes of ice, which produces a heavier, less snowy consistency). One of the few of old-style kiosks to survive the test of time is Sora Lella (Via Porta Cavalleggeri), right outside St. Peter’s square, where elbow grease is still the power behind the ice-making. Sora Maria (Via Trionfale and Via Telesio) is considered by many to be the best chiosco in town – its certainly one of the oldest – and despite its slightly out-of-the-way location, the place can be a complete circus on summer nights: all pushy Romans doing their delicate dance to obtain a grattachecca as quickly as possible without waiting in line.

Sora Mirella (Lungotevere degli Anguillara at the Ponte Cestio) also does a brisk business in summertime owing to its superb location right next to the Isola Tiberina (Tiber Island). Here, you can look forward to grand concoctions of a multitude of syrups and big hunks of fresh summer fruit. But my personal favorite is Fonte D'oro, also located on the Lungotevere at Piazza Belli (across from Ponte Garibaldi). At this old-style kiosk, Daniele and his granny serve up their marvelous grattachecche as if your’re a member of the family. Their specialty is ‘metà metà’ (half and half), a mixture of fresh-squeezed lemon juice (spremuta) and sweet lemon syrup. Other flavors include watermelon (cocomero), tamarind, and ‘puffo’, which I’m told is a direct translation of ‘Smurf’ – I think you get the picture. Top with fresh coconut or sour cherries (amarene) and make sure to help Daniele practice his English as you enjoy your tasty ice concoction. 

Sure, there are a ton of good gelaterie in town (ice cream will be the subject of another blog entry, don’t worry), but at least once, you must try this distinctly Roman treat. Some kiosks will even add booze to your ice if you ask.

Grattachecca kiosks are generally open in summer months from afternoon to late night. Prices start at around 3 euro and add-ons include extra fruit chunks and booze. Most kiosks also sell canned and bottled beverages, including beer and soda, as well.